Continuing with my photo diary of our journey through Costa Rica, it was now day 8 and the next stop was the highlands of Costa Rica, and the beautiful valley of San Gerardo de Dota, with the main aim of seeing the Reslendent Quetzal, a very spectacular Trogon found in the could forests. On route we had 2 stops, one for this absolute beauty of a Northern Tamandua, which Jessy expertly spotted near the side of the road.
And the next stop was the famous Bosque Del Tolomuco feeding station and lodge. The weather really wasn’t on our side up here but we saw some cracking birds in a short space of time, in torrential rain. Highlights were Red-headed Barbet, Violet Sabrewing, Snowy-bellied Hummingbird, Silver-throated Tanagers, Rose-breasted Grosbeak, Lesser Violetear and Green-crowned Brilliant. A superb little lodge and a great stop for birding!
Back on the road and onto our next accommodation; the road just kept on rising into the clouds and eventually, near the summit, we turned off in to the valley of Dota where you then descend deep into one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. Steep, mystical, oak-lined valleys with huge lichen-clad trees undulating into the distance. This area is much cooler and the oxygen noticeably thinner, making you feel out of breath without doing a thing. The destination was Savegre Lodge and spa, a lovely hotel right in the thick of Quetzal habitat, at the very end of the valley. We settled in, had dinner and then went out doing a bit of owling, albeit unsuccessful, as we only saw Dusky Nighthjar, a good bird to see nonetheless. Time for bed!
Day 9 and morning soon came around as we were up at 05:30 to look for the star attraction, quetzals. The roads were busy with observers, with over a hundred people hoping for a glimpse of this superstar bird; quetzals have fans from all over the world it seems! We were only treated to brief views, which kind of kept things interesting as a bit more effort was needed to get better views. Some might say that these crowds of people are an annoyance and not fair on the birds, but my view is that even though the few birds that are being watched in this area might be slightly affected, they are ambassadors for the rest of the population, and are definitely ambassadors for conservation in the area.
So, after breakfast we went on a long walk in the rain to a waterfall at the end of the valley. Getting there was like being in an Indiana Jones movie, with lots of half collapsed bridges on ropes over a fast flowing river. It was a real adventure, and a great connection with nature! And to top it off, our guide Jesse found us this lovely male Quetzal, that was being overlooked by everyone else on the paths! A great spot!
After a small break we gathered the troops and went for lunch at Miriams Quetzals, a nice little cafe with lodgings half way up the valley. I have stayed here a few times and the food is great, the chalets are cheap and comfortable and the birding is mega! Here are just a selection of some of the birds on offer on her balcony alone, where she keeps the birds as well fed as the customers.
Bizarrely, the wild Avacodo tree behind her house was in fruit, and that was attracting quetzals, making it look like the quetzals were coming to the tables for food.
Back to base for cocktails and a relax before dinner. Two nights is all you really need in this area if you stay active and tackle all the sights. If you want to relax and make use of the spa then I would suggest 3 nights.
Here are a few more record shots of just some of the birds we say in the highlands. Incredible diversity!
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